Where it begins May 12, 2008
ALL storytelling must start somewhere. Mine starts in Dalkey, a seaside town on the west coast of Ireland. I am around three years old, so it must be 1949 - I am standing beside a pram, watching fascinated as a glossy wet sweet pops out of the chest of a small baby.
“He has a hole in his chest, see?” the baby’s older brother, a child of about my own age, plucks off the sweet morsel glistening on the sticky front of the baby’s grubby woollen jumper. “He can’t swallow nothin’. It just comes out his chest.”
“Do it again,” I said.
The boy pops the sweet back in the baby’s mouth, and a moment later, there it is again, glistening with saliva.
The boy and his brother were Settled People, or Stone People, as I called them. They lived in houses of stone, every detail of their lives etched in stone, ending up in graves with headstones marking where they lay.
I was a traveller. Our days passed unrecorded, and sometimes our deaths too. It was the storytelling that was our calendar, our book of days.
“Wasn’t that the year the tent blew down at Fermanagh?” someone would say and everyone else would remember, or someone else would say, “no, it was the time young Jimmy caught the big salmon in his good clothes,” and the storytelling would begin.
The Travelling People died and were buried at various places, they married and had their children and that was also somewhere along the way. It might have been Ireland, England or Scotland. But we were not Irish, or English, or Scottish. We were Travellers. We belonged everywhere and nowhere.
These people, the boy and his baby brother, belonged here in Dalkey. They would grow up here, marry, probably die and be buried in Dalkey. They might never even see Dublin, or Cork, or any place outside of Dalkey. That made them endlessly fascinating to me.
And this boy told a good tale, but I didn’t believe a word of it. He was an amateur magician, a clever boy with some sleight of hand, but not good enough to fool me. My dad was a stage magician too, a real one.
The sweet popping out of the baby’s chest is the earliest conscious memory that I have. It was also the beginning of my fascination with the Stone People, I think.
The house, where the boy and his baby brother lived, had a deep yard behind it, where travellers camped in Dalkey. It was a rough tober, but one we used frequently.
Tober was the word we used for campground. It’s a Gaelic word that means a well, a waterhole. Water was the most important thing to a traveller, so I suppose this the reason for using that word. There were other words for a campground, like the one the gipsies used, hatchintan. We travellers spoke a mixture of traveller languages, a sort of secret code amongst ourselves. Any attempt for an outsider – a josser, a diddikai, a flattie, a giorgio – to learn the Traveller language was doomed to fail, as we changed it all the time, switching between tongues to keep it secret from the Settled People.
But I could not stay away from them. They had histories, roots, constancy – I had stories, vague memories of people who came and went through my young life like ghosts, some of them.
My father laughed when I told him about the baby.
“You know it’s a trick,” he said. “Like the tricks I do in the show.”
Yes, I knew it was a trick – but I had almost hoped it might be true, and that it would tell me something about the Settled People, who must be magic to be able to stay in one place so long.



